FAST FACTS:
  • "Good Hair" topic hits home in Mid-South
  • Mid-South stylists define "Good Hair"
  • Memphis companies cash in on $9 Billion Black Hair Industry
(Memphis 10/29/2009) - News Channel 3 has straight talk about the subject of so called good hair. What is it? Why is the term is so controversial and, why are some women willing to go to extreme lengths to get it? These are all questions we explore.

The renewed interest in the topic of what is good hair is sparked by a new documentary, "Good Hair" by comedian Chris Rock. In a funny way, he explores the serious culture and big business of Black hair. News Channel 3 found the money trail winds right through the Mid-South.

For many the term "good hair" traditionally referred to black hair that's straight or wavy. Some believe it's rooted in history.

"I think it goes back to slavery the field and the house person. They felt like people who had a better grade of hair were getting certain advantages from people who didn't have that type of hair," said Mary Wooldridge, a Memphis woman.

The idea of good hair has been talked about in the black community for years but now comedian that Chris Rock is talking about the controversial topic on the big screen. In the movie he visits a factory that makes permanent hair relaxer and stirs up a big vat. He also interviews famous women who talk about what hair means to them and in big places like Hollywood.

The movie has a lot of people talking but not everyone things it's a topic fit for the theatres.

"I don't think that he should enhance what most people other than our ethnicity would call a lesser attraction," said Michael Moore, downtown Memphis.

Rock calls permanent relaxer 'creamy crack'. He says many black women are addicted to straight hair because its more acceptable. However, Memphis stylist Geno Evans believes it's more about manageability.

"The convenience factor comes up first. In other words my hair is straight it's easier for me to prepare myself, I don't have to go to the salon as much. So, it's a little easier for African American women to do their hair," said Evans.

Politician and school board member Tomeka Hart also weighed in on the topic of good hair.

Hart said, "I do reject the term good hair. So when I hear people say it, especially when they're standing around little girls. Little girls don't need that pressure that whatever they have in their hair is not good."

Hart stopped straightening her hair in 2004 and went natural. A few weeks ago she went even further and cut it all off.

"I got to the point where I had to say I am okay. My coily, nappy head is fine with me and that doesn't make me any less of a woman," said Hart.

Lisa Akbari owns the World Trichology Institute in Memphis. She says more women than ever before are shying away from chemical relaxers. She expects the numbers might rise after Rock's movie.

"I'm actually excited about what he's doing because it really helps our cause and our mission. It's something we've been doing for many years," said Akbari.

However, Akbari doubts the number of women going natural will ever out number those who want straight hair and are willing go to any extreme to get it. That point is evident in Rock's documentary when he talks to a stylist that commands as much as $3,000 for a hair weave. Her salon even has a layaway plan for those wanting to purchase a head full of weave.

The black hair care industry is a $9 billion industry and News Channel 3 found some of that money ends up here in the Mid-South. Look at the labels at some well known Black hair care products. Softee products are made in Somerville, TN. Hair oil like Royal Crown made in Olive Branch and Ampro gel comes right off the assembly line in Memphis' Frayser neighborhood.

"My father-in-law, Irvin Lansky, actually started the business back in the late 40's early 50's," said Ampro owner, Henry Rudner.

In a time when many manufacturing plants are cutting back, Ampro is expanding. The maker of black hair care products has signed on city of Memphis CAO, Jack Sammons, as its president and employs about 50 other people. They ship to major retailers all across the country. News Channel 3 sees the massive operation first hand. We watch as they prepare and ship out orders that add up to a million and a quarter pound of gel every month.

"These products are in Walmart, Walgreens, Family Dollar, Dollar General, Fred's," said Rudner.

Ampro is expanding into other ethnic markets. The company says the quest for nice looking hair is not unique to African Americans. News Channel 3 learned neither is the discussion of good hair.

European American women in downtown Memphis say good hair to them is glossy and shiny not dull. Others say adding color and extensions give them a boost of confidence.

Whether you wear it natural, relax it or color your hair, Chris Rock hopes his documentary gets people talking and raises the level of acceptance for whatever style a woman or man chooses to wear.